Asiatic acid and asiaticoside are triterpenoid saponins, both derived from the whole herb of the Umbelliferae plant Centella asiatica, which is mainly produced in the south of the Yangtze River, and contains 1.1% to 1.8% of saponins. Asiatic acid and glycosides are the main active ingredients, which can be isolated from Centella asiatica extract.
Physical and chemical properties
Asiatic acid is needle-like crystal; Asiaticoside is light yellow to light brown powder, and the pure product is tiny needle-like crystal (60% methanol). The CAS number of asiatic acid is 464-92-6, asiaticoside CAS number is 16830-15-2.
Safety management
The "Announcement on the Catalog of Names of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used" issued by the State Food and Drug Administration in 2014, and the "Catalogue of Chinese Names of International Cosmetic Raw Materials Standards" published by CTFA and China Fragrance Association in 2010 all included Asiatic acid and Centella asiatica. Glycosides are used as cosmetic raw materials, and there is no report that they are unsafe for external use.
Application in cosmetics
Asiatic acid has certain antibacterial properties and can inhibit Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pneumoniae, but asiaticoside has no antibacterial properties.
1, Folks often use Centella asiatica, Kochia scoparia, and wild chrysanthemum to treat eczema and skin itching, and have antibacterial effects. The mechanism is estimated to be that asiatic acid can dissolve the outer wax film of bacteria and be killed by other drugs or body defense tissues; asiatic acid and glycosides can be used externally to promote wound healing, stimulate granulation, and promote epidermal keratinization or epidermis Regenerates and helps to generate connective tissue; it works better when used in conjunction with phospholipids, and has a significant effect on eliminating facial acne, regulates the metabolism of the cortex, and has no significant impact on skin respiration and biosynthesis;
2, Madecassoside has estrogen-like effect and can stimulate the growth rate of hair. It can be used in hair lotion at a dosage of about 0.05%.
3, Madecassoside can effectively inhibit the activity of melanin, and has whitening effect when used in skin care products.
